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Chogolisa (7665-M) Expedition

Chogolisa (7665m) is one of the most beautiful mountains in the Karakoram. It really has two summits which are connected by a long, almost horizontal ridge. Even though Chogolisa is not a really difficult mountain, it is very rarely climbed or even attempted.

After the first ascent of Broad Peak in 195, Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger tried to climb Chogolisa, but they had to turn back due to bad weather. On the way down, Hermann Buhl stepped on a cornice and fell to his death. He has never been found.

The first ascent of the North-East summit (7654m) was made by a Japanese expedition in 1958.  The South-West Summit (7665m) was first reached by the Austrians G. Ammerer and F. Pressl in 1975.

In 2012 Shipton Tres & Tours organized the expedition of the Austrian top climber David Lama and his partner, Peter Ortner, who summited the mountain and skied down. 

Itinerary


Note: Itinerary (can be shortened or extended depending on time, weather and physical condition)

Days Destinations / Day by day itinerary Accommodation  
01 Arrive Islamabad transfer to hotel, afternoon welfare meeting with ACP Hotel  
02 Drive to Chilas on Karakorum highway 11-12 hrs 461km Hotel  
03 Drive to Skardu along with Indus River 8-9hrs 290km Hotel  
04 Drive to Askoli 6-7hrs 3000m Camp  
05 Trek to Jhola 5-6hrs 3200m Camp  
06 Trek to Paiyu 6-7 hrs 3450m Camp  
07 Rest day in Paiyu Camp  
08 To Khubursy 5-6 hrs Camp  
09 Trek to Urdukas 3-4hrs 4050m Camp  
10 Trek to Goro-II (5-6hrs) 4380m Camp  
11 Trek to Chogolisa Base Camp Camp  
12 / 35 28 days for climbing Camp  
36 Trek to Goro-II (5-6hrs) 4380m Camp  
37 Trek to Paiyu 6-7 hrs 3450m Camp  
38 Trek to Jhola 5-6hrs 3200m Camp  
39 Trek to askole 6-7hrs 3000m Camp  
40 Drive to Skardu 5-6 hrs Camp  
41 Drive to Chilas 8-9hrs Camp  
42 Drive to Islamabad 11-12hrs Hotel  
43 Morning farewell meeting with Alpine Club, afternoon sightseeing Hotel  
44 Transfer to Islamabad airport for international flight    

Dates & Prices


Dates & Prices

Best Time For Climbing Duration of Expedition Group size Expedition package
June - August 45 Days ISB-ISB 05-07-12 Climbers Depends on group Size
Contact Us for Prices      

Services


Services included in the Package

•    Climbing permit process.
•    Royalty of the Peak.
•    Additional royalty fee per additional member above 7Pax.
•    Environmental Fee
•    Liaison officer/Guide daily wages and insurance
•    Liaison officer /Guide equipment
•    Staff: Guide, cook, assistant cook and kitchen Boy
•    Cooking Equipment Complete brand new kitchen utensils (crockery)
•    Camping Food: During trekking and at base camp.
•     Porters: Required porters their wages, food, equipment, transport, and insurance.
•    Accommodation with B/L/D(except in Islamabad)
•    Transportation Islamabad to Islamabad
•    Camping Equipment such as sleeping tent, mess tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, shower tent, mattress, chairs, tables table lamps etc
•    Member's personal baggage 75KGs per person way up to base camp and 50KGs per person way back after Expedition.
•    Arrange welfare meeting with Alpine Club
•    Cargo equipment storege.
•    Tips for baggage handling at airport & at hotels
•    International flights tickets re-confirmation
•    Fess: (Bridge crossing, cable crossing, camping)